Bordeaux and Burgundy: the very words have a rich and well-rounded ring to them. Partly, it’s those initial bulbous Bs. Mainly, though, it’s that for centuries they have lent a civilised, even spiritual, texture to fleshly pleasures.

Lots of places furnish good wine and food. No others do so in the presence of quite so many chateaux and world-class abbeys. Nowhere else is good living so stamped into the DNA, both a product and a locomotive of the past. Nowhere else do you feel that being plump is a duty imposed by history.